Most travelers to Hong Kong are drawn to the glamor of its main island, yet across Victoria Harbor lies the more populous Kowloon. Dubbed the ‘dark side’, despite being constantly lit up in a fiery neon glow, Cologne remains uneasily caught between Western idealism. Da Lee (Mainland China)
Kowloon’s typically bustling, frenzied atmosphere – a neon swirl of steamy markets and steaming shrimp and beer stalls – seems a world away from the dapper expat crowd of Hong Kong Island.
More of a hole-in-the-wall than a triad sanctuary, Cologne (which means ‘nine dragons’) can swallow up the unwary tourist, especially after sunset. Here are some of our favorite ways to tame the itch beast and uncover the best of cologne at night.
Take into consideration.
From Hong Kong Island, the best way to get to Kowloon is via the historic Star Ferry. Get off at Tsim Sha Tsui, where evening is the perfect time to explore designer stores and fine dining with spectacular views of the Hong Kong Island skyline at dusk. Every night from 8pm, the Symphony of Lights laser show begins along the Avenue of Stars on Tsim Sha Tsui’s promenade, sending flashes of green and purple across the horizon from the island’s tallest skyscrapers. The bar at the InterContinental Hotel is an ideal viewing spot for this colorful display. A less utilitarian option can be found along the eastern rail line, the Wee King Lounge (shop K2 and K6, G/F, Hung Hom Ferry Pier), at Hung Hom’s excellent dive bar, which is actually the only drinking establishment on the water. Is.
Shop
Nathan Road Kowloon and through it is the main route.s Bright lights and department stores attract thousands of serious shoppers. Many of the smaller streets around Midnight Nathan Road offer a more local experience. Temple Street Most popular for rubbing shoulders with the public. You’ll need sturdy shoes to negotiate.In the back streets of Mong Coke – gave Heart 2014 umbrella Revolution And one of the most densely populated neighborhoods in the world. Fortunately yYou can Find all ways to On pump-up kicks Snickers Street (Fa Yuen The cow).
Walking parallel to Nathan Road is fascinating. Shanghai Street, Where old The milk tea houseFood stalls and Kitchenware Shops Create a charm Dizzy Day or night. IIf you can’t find it what you wanttry Chungking Mansions, Back to Nathan Road, Once a refugee must be stopped on the hippie trail and now one Welcome to the microcosm of global trade. Here you cHanging Currencyy, to buy Electronics, get a massagemeet some colorful characters and sample cheap, Delicious South Asian food.
drink
Traveling north along Nathan Road, you’ll find Dundas Street, which kicks off the emerging hipster scene in Mong Kok East. There is no shortage of places to drink around them. Great (back alleys), whether milk tea, twice-boiled herbal medicine or a cold pint of Blue Grill beer. All three are served at the Flukup Cafe, where chatting rather than dancing is the order of the evening and there are late-night jazz and indie gigs on the third floor.
Around the corner, you can hedge your bets in various street games of mahjong, but be sure to know your tiles. Otherwise, visit small noodle shops, record stores, workshops and artsy cafes (many Macha– flavored ice cream) here. If lost, knowledgeable staff from The Alley Project (thealeproject.com) on Hak Po St will calm your nerves with delicious pints of craft beer and huge portions of bar snacks.
A late night search
Even at midnight in summer, you’ll find elderly locals practicing tai chi before bed and teenagers shooting hoops on floodlit courts while canto pop blasts from digital speakers. Just north of Prince Edward MTR station along Tung Choi St are several rows of bars where games of darts and dice are a nightly ritual.
Wander east past the flower market (or hail a cab) – busy setting up for the morning at this time of night – and you’ll eventually find Kolnwald City, an ungovernable Chinese settlement during British rule. The area was home to hundreds of people. Opium dens and dens These days, it’s a beautiful public park that’s open 24 hours a day. Kowloon City is also home to a vibrant Thai community, who take to the streets after dark. Sip on whiskey at the dimly lit Vinny Bar (G/F 40-42 San Po Kong Road).
go clubbing
Most MTR lines close around 1am in Kowloon, so you’ll want to hop in a red taxi to get to Pink Den Hidden Agenda in Kwun Tong on the east side of Kowloon Bay. Cover charges depend on who is playing, but average around HKD$100. The entrance is through the car garage and is off the beaten path. Find a gig poster or security guard to guide you. The elevator opens to the club door. If there’s no action here, try the Italian restaurant room around the corner, Tfvsjs (Unit B, 10/F, Gee Luen Factory Building, 316-318 Kwun Tong Rd). Run by a post-rock band, it’s big, painfully cool and has a bring-your-own-alcohol policy.
If you’re still out and hungry, continue by taxi to Wong Tai Sun’s Choi Woo Lee (Shop 2, Lower Wong Tai Sun Estate, Chung Tak St), a 24-hour outdoor seafood restaurant with The fried squid balls are filling. Late night drunk customers for years. And if you’re still ready to roll after that, you can bring the sun up at Lo Da Cafe (Cheap King Industrial Building, 114 King Fok St., San Po Kong), ten floors up in an industrial warehouse. There is an ‘underground’ club. Where cardboard boxes litter the entrance and smoking is essentially mandatory. The crowd here is old and rowdy yet sane, and the sound system rivals anything on Hong Kong Island.
to sleep
If you find that most taxis are refueling at the nearest dim sum joint and you can’t handle the journey home, the excellent Penta Hotel is just around the corner. Back in Kwun Tong, L’hotel élan is an equally great option. Soon, the morning sun will burn into smog as check-in moves into check-out. But Hong Kong sleeps late and you deserve a lie. When you gather energy again, the Nine Dragons of Kowloon will be waiting just outside your door.