This central part of Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park is a stunning wilderness, with stunning views over Pittwater and Broken Bay, hidden beach communities, Aboriginal carvings and great walking paths to perfect little coves. It is accessed from Mona Vale Rd in Terry Hills or by boat from Palm Beach. West Head itself, 14km from the main road, offers a thrilling lookout point and a steep trail down to the WWII site. Other trailheads are signposted along the road.
The West Head lookout sees you looking east over the Palm Beach Peninsula or north to Lion Island and across Broken Bay to Omina and Pearl Beach.
About 3.5 km from West Head is the Little Basin Track, which offers an easy stroll to a good set of indigenous carvings. About 2.5km further along the track is the Basin, a shallow round inlet with a beach (adult/child day visitors $3/2) and camping area. Access is via this trek or by boat from Palm Beach. A branch of the Basin Track leads to the remote, uncrowded beachside suburbs of Mackerel Beach and Kraung (Little Mackerel) Beach, also accessible by ferry from Palm Beach.
About 1 km from West Head, there are indigenous handprints in Gadar near Red Hands Cave at the Resolute Picnic Area. From here, too, the Resolute Track passes an Aboriginal engraving site on a 3km loop that takes in beautiful Resolute Beach and another site. You can push a bit (some wading required) towards Mackerel Beach, returning via the Basin Track.
Generally elusive, lyrebirds are prominent on West Head during their mating season from May to July.
Accessed via the same exit from Mona Vale Rd, are the beautiful pitwater locales of Church Point, Acuna Bay and Cottage Point, all full of pleasure boats. Everyone has food options. The beautiful road winding along the water is interestingly named after General José de San Martín, the Liberator of Argentina. Apparently it was a mutual allusion when a street in Buenos Aires was named Australia.
There are no buses in the park. The only public transport to reach it are ferries from Palm Beach. Cycling around the park roads is a good option, but it’s a long walk from the nearest station. Bus 270 runs from central Sydney to Terry Hills. You can get there by taxi, Uber or maybe bike share. Sydney runs good tours in the Outback Park.